L'IIle Lifou

Lifou, Loyalty Islands

Just so you all don't hate me too much, I don't have a tan yet and I still haven't even been swimming! I know its going to hard to believe but its true. I have learned a new meaning to the word rain, as in buckets. Yesterday I took a ride down to the southern part of the island Lifou, about 30ks and on the way back it literally felt like someone was throwing buckets of water on me- full buckets! I don't know if you can imagine that. the saving grace is that its not cold and yes the beaches are deserted, the water is green and the houses are simple thatched roof affairs with colorful dresses drying on the line, chickens in the yard, boys splashing in puddles and colorful flowers growing in the roadside. Its has most things you would expect to see in a place that never dips below 80 degrees, people perpetually in shorts and sandals, a slow pace to life, lots of friendly waving and greeting of bonjour.

I went to the local vente de vanille to have short tour of the plantation and caves. The local owner showed me the vanilla and explained how they grew and lowered, and the process for drying it and selling. Then we went on a walk into the foret where he pointed out native plants and their various medicinal uses. At last we reached the grotte, or cave, and here was a magnificent view from the dark and dewy mouth over a 10 m drop to the bottom of the valley below. I managed to slip just at the edge and almost went over. We were lucky to be there as the first downpour of the day came down and we were thankfully inside the cave.

I learned a few more things about the native peoples- there are three territory here and each has its own chief. This chief governs politically but has no legal power. There are complex rules about how much and what kind of contact each member has with the chief, such as who can eat with him, or only speak a greeting. Within the territory you have numerous tribus which own the land; that means that nobody can ever buy land or develop it for money. In that way the traditional culture is completely preserved because once people build their homes they lack for nothing- they can fish or grow food easily and basically work when they want. As it turns out the women work alot and the men next to nothing, and there is big drinking problems here. Otherwise the pace of life is very simple and slow. I guess the biggest objective of the day would be going to market or doing the laundry.

I will wait here until the next boat comes through. The Havannah is the one I took, the slower cargo ship which makes a circuit every week from Noumea to mare, lifou and ovea. I cant believe I survived the 20 hour trip from Noumea. I watched the line of the ocean go from the bottom of the window to the top, and managed to not throw while sleeping. I am considering seeing Ouvea, which is the next island, but really just an islet half moon shaped with smaller island around it. I think what I am really missing is the scuba diving here and all the things beneath the water.

However, at least Americans have a good reputation here because they helped rid NC of the French colonists who had basically made the native people slaves in their own land. Many people have said that I am the first American they have ever met, and I have been making sure that I say upfront I am American, and not Australian, and also that I am a writer. This got me an executive tour of the Havannah boat and the to met the captains.