Tailwinds and American Campers

January 30th, 2009

So its one week on the road now. I have definitely gotten stronger and after having reorganized and rebalanced my equipment, feel that I can handle the load now. It does still seem that the roads are a bit steeper in grade, but who knows? The nice thing about yesterday was I met a funny couple at the campground- BJ and Garett Smith from Vail, CO. They are probably in their 70s or so, but have biked all over, hiked and are now holidaying around Aussie and NZ for a couple of months. We started chatting last night about bike touring and they gave me a beer. We watched some of the Tennis Open (amazing) and caught up on the pros and cons of loaded vs unloaded tours. I am starting to see the pleasure in credit card touring, as it is called...hmmmm

In the morning I thought I might never see them again, but lo and behold there they appeared about 100 Kms down the road!! They offered to take my load which was nice because although I had a tailwind all the way, I was now starting to tire. The last 10 kms were so fun without the weight and it was extra hilly so they were there when I needed them. The great thing, too, was they didnt run off with all my stuff and had it all layed out at the campsite with a cold beer awaiting...They sure are showing me a new way of doing things! After I cuaght up with a couple of bikers I had seen before- the Aussie who heard about me through the couple with the 2 year old and a large group of Taiwanese- BJ and Garett took me out to dinner to a lovely "up town" restaurant. We talked about rides, Obama, nutrition and writing. BJ encouraged me to write for Outside magazine although I am unsure yet what my angle would be. She suggested "cluelessness" and that may be a good one.

The Mt Cook area is really pretty and the winds were changing all day, darkening the sky and then stopping dead still, humid and heavy. But I did have mostly a tailwind all day which was ever so nice- I was cruising about 15-17 miles an hour so covered quite a lot of ground. So here I am in Fairlie now if you want to look it up on the map. It is in the Canterbury region and this campsite has FREE internet dang!! After spending 10$ on the last place here it is for free! Well, you never do know what is coming up.

Some thoughts I have been having while 8-10 hours on the bike are MOTORCYCLING yes, would love to get a pink harley and ride all around. That would be cool...I would need the pink to match my BB and laptop in case you are wondering.

So you want to know what is so awesome about Kiwi campgrounds? Well, they all have kitchens, internet rooms, tv rooms, magazines, books what have you. The idea of a communal kitchen is really awesome so you can use the stove, tables, hot water boiler, wash dishes in a sink and put your persihables in the fridge. Now there is something else they also have which are rentable vans but they have them painted all different ways. It sort of appeals to the younger travelling crowd and each van is painted a different way. I have always been keen to paint cars and I think a bizness like that would have anice market in the US.

Well those are my ideas, million dollar ideas if you will, and I guess there is just way too much time to think these days! Now I am wondering where else I may go? The Taiwanese trip leader works at an adventure school and suggests a trip around the island. well, that is something to consider...

Take Aways

Note to self: stop getting deep fried take aways...

Yesterday, I was walking around and kind of bored when I saw a menu that said "seafood box" and "steak monster sandwich." I bought both. Portions are extremely large here in NZ; perhaps in anticipation of the long kilometers and spaces between the next meal. Or not. Maybe there are just pigs, or maybe I am a pig, but as I laid theimmense portion of food before, I knew this exercise was a bad idea. I ate most of the fried fish, crab, mussels and calamari but not all the "chips." I had a small bite of the loaf of bread with steak inside. It was "good" but this morning I am not feeling well. I have been having a little trouble with keeping food down, having "exit both ways no waiting" a few times now. Feeling nauseous bike riding it not the best state to be in, that is for sure.

Today I will be riding to Geraldine, and then inland again towards Mt Cook. It is supposed to be a lovely area and the day is clear after last nights wind. Hopefully I wont have a head wind, although it seems no matter which way you go it is there. My only issue is how sore my hands are; my palms get numb and arms hurt constantly. My neck is killing me, but i can deal with it. well, i guess I have procrastinated enough! I must say I love the kiwi campsite- the Americans should consider this set up!

PS this coast line shot was one of my favorite moments of a man playing bag pipes on the beach early morning...You can imagine the sound against the waves, cant you?

One Week in NZ

January 30th, 2009

Biking back from Kaikoura, I followed the wondeful rugged coast. There were sea lions about 10 feet away from me on the rocks. They would have been so cute if they didnt smell so bad. Such is nature. After going through the "hundalees" I met a couple of bikes with their 2 year old son! Wow, now that is something. They were at the end of their trip of 3 months and had been camping the whole time. You see?!?

I continued on the busy highway and realized now while all the books recommend the inland routes. The trucks pass very fast and there is almost no shoulder in areas. I found my route down to the sea in Gore Bay, which was a lovely inlet with a camping ground stairs up from the beach. I did try to swim, and tan away my biker shorts tan, but it was freezing and windy. So I just jumped in quickly and got eaten by sand flies before running back to my tent.

Yesterday was a long mileage day, not sure how long, but it covered quite a distance on the map. I went from Gore Bay to Ashley Gorge. My second pair of bike shorts arent as comfortable as the other and I was squirming and getting deadlegs all day. That sort of small thing can make a good day a hell day, but I did endure. Now I am in Methven, and its a ski area in winter and sort of quiet in summer. I am doing laundry and wish I could upload some photos so you could see. I will keep trying...I did bring a fire wire to do it.

I feel relaxed and really hope I can do some wwoofing to meet some kiwis. So far my first stop will not work out as I had planned so I am hoping for a stop in Dunedin. I am getting used to the riding and long distances now. All is well.

New in New Zealand

January 25th, 2009

Yes, I made it! It was a long flight and I watched about 4 movies- Eternal Sunshine of a Spotless Mind and Vicky Christine Barcelona were two that I enjoyed, and set the right tone for the trip. Oh yeah, I also watched Lost in Translation, but Ive seen that heaps of times.

Upon arrival, I went through customs and believe it or not, there was a "bike assembly" station outside of the airport! I have NEVER seen that before, and I met a couple of cyclists while assembling. I took my time, and noticed right away how warm it was. I had a couple of conversations with passing folks, and felt very comfortable. It was really relaxing- just the environment was different. When i took off, I had to stay to the left. Its like trying to write with your left hand when youve been right handed your whole life- very disconcerting.

I found a nice campground, and after setting up went off exploring. There was a buskers festival with lots of interesting circus acts and had a sandwich across from the park. The city was very active, and I enjoyed the weather. I rode off to the beach and was going to keep going, but I could see already how sunburned my arms were getting and went back to camp. I had a lively conversation with a motor-biking Kiwi on holiday, and he confirmed if I stayed on south island, I would have a "ball."

I slept early and deeply. When i woke up I was rearing to go so I decided on a 3 day trip up north to Kaikoura because I will head south afterwards and wont be back to Christchurch. I thought this would be a nice test run...I rode about 60 miles in increasing heat...Burning my arms, I had to put on a jacket despite it being upwards of 90 degrees. I rode all day, very little water and had a headache. At last, I saw a river with some bathing campers, and decided this was nice place to stay. I chatted with few families, and got some tips from another moto biker...My impression is that NZ is like the US but less developed, more rural. more relaxed and they appreciate adventures into the great outdoors. Mostly, my journey garnered interest and appreciation, but nothing out of the ordinary.

Day TWO- I left early and began the 80 km ride to Kaikoura. I took the back roads which meant a more scenic roads- ie brown hills. I kept thinking, where were the green hills? Everything was so dry, so hot and not much to look at. Well up ahead were some mountains, lots of climbign and some nice views opened up upon reaching the shore. Green sea water, waves, large cliffs and glacier carved mountains. There wasnt a single town or stopping place along the route, just cows, horses, sheep and llama. Its taking some getting used to- mostly I wish I had trained more!!

Almost There...

January 21st, 2009

Having spent the last few weeks in California- first at my mom's place and then at my aunt's- I have eased myself in to the nomadic lifestyle again. I havent had my own space for a few weeks now- no room to call my own, no time to be alone. Its better for me not to think too much, but depsite being around people all the time, I have been lost in my own thoughts. Mostly, I have been living in the past. Its strange how the smallest thing- like shopping at Target, passing a restaurant we once ate at, the exit off the I-5 one road trip long ago...Its true that there is "always something there to remind me." And with each memory comes with the mix of guilt and self reproach that I have yet to let go and move on. How do others do it so quickly and easily? I fear I am too weak.

Perhaps there will be a time to look back on these thoughts and chuckle. I dont feel nervous about tomorrow- I am a little excited, but mostly it seems like when you know are dreaming and you think "I am dreaming, I should just wake up..." Thats how I feel, that I should just wake up and stop the parade of monsters, shadows and otherworldly things, and just come back to the real world where I am myself- strong, happy, enthusiastic about possibilities. Its like I have been underwater and need to come up for air...My lungs are bursting because I cant breathe!

Finally my trip begins tomorrow. By 7 pm I will leave from LAX and begin the 12 hour journey to Christchurch. I imagine touching down in the airport, with my bike in parts and my bags on the floor around me. I imagine riding out from the terminal, with all the eyes upon me- will they wish me well? And I imagine finding the first nights stay- perhaps a hostel? And those first nights exploring a new city, with the entre trip before me, endless possibilities- that will be the right feeling I believe...

Yes, I am going....

January 15th, 2009

It took a few weeks to sort out my feelings, my plans and fears. At last, I am ready to go to New Zealand. I have just about everything piece of equipment I could need...Only debating whether or not to bring the laptop. I wish I was ready to invest in a fancy phone to do all that- the google phone is so cool. How did I ever travel so disconnected before?!?

One new idea I am incoporating is WWOOFing. www.wwoof.co.nz

See map below for my route details:

January 22nd- arrive in Christchurch (South Island, east coast) few days to acclimate and get ready.

Travel few days inland and south to Timaru. Possible wwoofing opportunity with 200 sheep and 300 cows. oh yeah!!

Tavel inland and loop down to Oamaru, south to Dunedin and along the south coast to Invergargill. North up to Milford Sound, and bus to Queenstown. Few days in Q-town (bungy jumping aahhhh!)

North to West Coast region- cycling the Southern Alps route to Westport. Possible side beach trip to Karamea www.rongobackpackers.com and WWOOF opportunities.

Back inland east and north up to Nelson and east to Picton by March 2nd or so. Catch ferry to Wellington in the North Island.

North Island: spend a few days in Wellington, with possible WWOOFing opps north of the city before heading west to Wanganui and around the Mt. Taranaki region.

Cut inland to Rotorua for sulphuric pools and yoga ashram stay. Time permitting head east for the East Cape circuit before heading west along the north coast over to Auckland and the Coromandel Pensinsula.

By the start of April I should be in the Auckland region, with hope to see the last bit of the Northland region before catching a plane back to the States on April 11th.

Is This Winter?

January, 2009 Orange County and San Diego, CA

Oh yeah, I remembered why its so awesome to live here-its 75 degrees in January! It makes me wonder why anyone would live anywhere else. I saw a picture of a flooded I-5 in Washington state, and counted my blessings to be so out of there! I thought a training ride to San Diego would be in order to train for New Zealand, and a little change of scenery was also called for, so I loaded up a few things and took off down the coast. What a brilliant day it was! Beach after beach after beach- nothing but clear blue skies and beaches! It was really great and when I ate dinner, even better.

Chris and I cruised around San Diego the next day, fixing up my bike and getting me set up with clipless pedals. I was sort of nervous and avoiding getting them, but I really like the extra power to be had. We had the BEST fish tacos ever, washed down with some nachos and a pitcher of beer. My stomach was exploding- if only I had another stomach; it was seriously a top 10 meal of the century.

I was hardly in shape to ride back to Dana Point, but biking is all about suffering and pushing the limits, so although I watched the passing trains with longing, I finished the return 75 mile trip. Luckily, I was back at home just in time for dinner. I was hungry enough to actually enjoy my mother's "dog food" meal. And really, I just want to show you how amazing and wonderful the weather is here- sun, beaches and biking. My top 3 favorite things in the world!!!

Should I stay or GO?!?

January 6th, 2009

I had the strangest sensation yesterday...I almost felt happy! Perhaps it was the warm sun beaming down on me through the window. The sky was clear and I swear to god I did feel more enthusiasm to get out there, to be positive and that life was good. If I told you how long it had been since I felt like that (probably since July), you wouldnt believe it.

I dont feel trapped anymore as now I feel at a crossroads. I dont feel paralyzed with indecision, just as much as I cant make up my mind. Removing myself from Seattle was a huge relief, and now I can think a little more clearly about what to do next- travel to NZ, move to SD, get a job, go to art school, buy a car...? I am sort of in between settling down NOW versus LATER. I dont think I am avoiding anything by not settling down now, just that there may be something out there for me I may miss if I rent a place now. I guess what I am unsure about is if I have the gumption in me to take on a long solo trip to a remote region of the world or not. Will I crumble? Will I feel lonely? Will something bad happen? Will it be worth it? New Zealand! Its so close to Antarctica!

They seem like your basic run of the mill fears.

On the other hand, maybe I am afraid of renting a place on my own, starting a single life, and being lonely in a new city. I dont relish the idea of looking for work- theres nothing worse than feeling rejected daily and that you are searching for something you cant find, and just hoping that some office staff will see your gleaming potential in a two page resume. Its a tough market out there right now...At least thats what they say.

Perhaps I dont really want to find out if its a tough economy or not. In fact, I would love to avoid that whole doom and gloom mentality right now. Why, its a lovely sunshiny day at the beach in January...What could be better!

Once again I find myself not making any decision until the time is right. I suppose I will know when the moment is here to decide- should I stay or go? For now, a little ray of hope came through as I paged through the WWOOFing booklet and signed up for some local San Diego meet up clubs. I had a laugh with my brother and sister watching a video and chased the cat off the kitchen table. A simple life.

Outlook for 2009

saturday january 3rd, 2009



Happy New Year! Yeah, whatever.



Its hard to feel overly optimistic about the new year; something seems missing to me. Does everyone feel that way? On one hand, I do feel anything is possible, while on the other hand I dont feel confident about going in any particular direction. I am yet to be completely decided about my next step, and as of now, I dont have immediate pressure to make a decision. It is kind of nice, maybe even a luxury. I am grateful to be able to relax about my parents house while I figure out what to do next. For that reason, it does feel appropriate to begin the new year with them, at home, relaxed and without pressure or stress.



Now that I have had a taste of the real world, I dont think I need to go back there. I was much happier with a piecemeal existence, not alighting upon any one thing for too long. I was working too much, and enjoying too little. Just because this is real life for many people doesnt mean it has to be for me. Also, why should I be compelled to think there are so few possibilities for me? Why should I feel doomed to carry out a hollow existence? I have lost joy in my life, enthusiasm. There was a time when I felt it in my own heart, and didnt just imagine it was happening for other people. I want to feel joy again.



No, the one career, 9 to 5 is not for me. I am too varied, too non-traditional, and too creative to be squelched inside a typical life. Dreams are what make us alive. Daring to dream is the most alive thing you can do. Whether or not you realize each dream doesnt matter, but the moment you stop dreaming, stop trying new things and stop feeling that everything is possible, well that is death. If that is growing up, than I am peter pan.



New ideas for 2009-- art school, starting a business, trips, joining some clubs, and lots of beach time, new friends, closer to home, have a great summer and by next holiday season be a new me, which is like the old me, all over again!