Coast to Countryside Cycling to Temecula

Coast to Countryside Cycling on Temecula's Old Stagecoach Route

Like the desperadoes and land prospectors who once swarmed to the Temecula valley, I too was attracted by the allure of wide-open country roads, except I was going by bicycle. These days, Temecula hardly resembles the uninhabited foothills that existed before the suburban explosion, but Temecula remains a cycling paradise with long uninterrupted roads connecting small farms, horse stables, and, of course, wineries.

My trip began in the famous harbor of Dana Point, whose rocky promontory point the headlands has been a battleground for environmentalists, which they finally lost. The harbor is named after explorer Henry H. Dana whose memoir Two Years before the Mast describes the hardship of a sailor's life running hides from the San Juan Capistrano mission to Boston around Cape Horn. the replica ship the Pilgrim sits in the harbor today next to Ocean Institute, an educational center for maritime history and marine ecology programs.

South of Dana Point, the route continues through Doheny State Park and Capistrano Beach, created from donated land from oil magnate Doheny. It is an amazing stretch of white-sand beach, popular among runners and rollerbladers. After passing through the city of San Clemente, continue through more protected coastline in San Onofre state park, a rugged and serene cliff-side coastal region.

Entering Camp Pendleton base requires an identification check, but once inside, cyclists can enjoy low-traffic roads, undeveloped mountains, and even a rattlesnake or two. Free from suburban sprawl, you are allowed the perspective of a California the Spanish missionaries must have found. The United State Marine Corps has established their primary amphibious training base here, and military presence can be felt throughout the city of Oceanside. After the railroad bridge, loop on to the multi-use trail of San Luis Rey, which meanders through the valley on a paved riverside path.

Exit the path at College St., and pop on to the northbound River Road which will connect you with the city of Fallbrook. After a few turns, you will be cycling on your own through hidden off-shoots of strawberry fields, wholesale plant nurseries and left over cattle ranches. The area has a long history of land appropriation, from first the Pechanga Indians to the Spanish missionaries, only redistributed again during the Mexican-American land wars. Today, the mixture exemplifies southern California culture with its multi-layered influences of Mexican immigrants and laid back hippie retreats.

In Fallbrook, the old stagecoach route begins connecting Temecula to San Diego. The stagecoach was an alternate form of goods transport before the development of railways, and passing through the tiny little unincorporated town of Rainbow, you can get a glimpse of a time gone-by. The earth is dry and dusty but is contrasted by the shock of crimson bougainvillea and orange poppies. The warm air is permeated with the fresh scent of orange blossoms and honey suckle. A road runner crosses the road and quails nervously flutter in the oak tree underbrush. At about mile sixty, you pass into the sprawl of Temecula.

Once in Temecula, you can take an extra day or two to ride escape on to some routes through the remote valley. There are many easy to follow loops of thirty and fifty miles, which connect local wineries and lakeside lunch stops. By day, appreciate the piercing blue sky, and by night, the cool desert air and chirping crickets.

After a few days of great cycling, fall asleep to howling coyotes and screeching birds of prey, creating a peaceful finish to an adventurous journey.